Introduction
We were looking out of the bus window and wondering what to expect, our backpacks crushing our jittery legs. We arrived at Yangshuo and got off the bus. A dozen taxi drivers approached us to get us to the hostel, we politely declined and started walking towards the once sleepy town centre. As we were approaching West street more and more restaurant staff were calling us from inside their establishment “very clean”, “delicious food”, “we are on TripAdvisor”. Increasingly, the crowd grew, loud music, lights and bars (something we had thought did not exist in China as we had desperately but unsuccessfully searched for one in Guilin). We carried on towards the north of town, up a hill where our hostel was located, the crowds started changing, where they had been mainly tourists, the crowd was now full of locals browsing fresh produce, the countryside started to be more visible and we started to understand the appeal of this small town.
We had read many blogs suggesting to skip Guilin and increasingly, many more suggesting to skip Yangshuo but we are big believers on giving places a chance and, if you know how to oversee the negative cons, every place has its charm and Yangshuo did not disappoint!
Whether you visit on a day trip or you stay, do not miss the countryside of this incredible region
Welcome to our guide of Yangshuo!
Best time to visit
Similarly to Guilin, it’s best to visit sometime between April and October although we went in November and although a little cold, there were plenty of sunny days to enjoy.
How to get in and around Yangshuo?
You will normally arrive at Yangshuo either by bus from Guilin, Xinping or by boat with a tour from Guilin. The bus station in Yangshuo is located just outside of town and it is walking distance to West street (around 20min) but taxis are readily available (just make sure to barter before entering or make sure the meter is on).
Within town, everything is walking distance, but if you want to visit the countryside it is recommendable to hire a bicycle or moped from either your accommodation or a renting company (beware of scams).
What to do in Yangshuo?
This countryside village has plenty to offer, there are boat tours, nightlife and excursions but these were our favourite activities in Yangshuo.
Impressions Liu Sanjie – Price around 200RMB (more for transport that can be purchased at your accommodation)
This incredible show of lights and music by the Li River is a must when you visit Yangshuo, the setting is actually the largest natural auditorium and it is in complete equilibrium with nature, using the natural islands within the river as part of the scenery. The 70 min show features 6 chapters in colours representing features from the region and Liu Sanjie, a legendary fairy singer. Liu was known by the Zhuang ethnic minority as a Goddess of singing, she was thought to be enslaved and oppressed due to jealousy for her gift. She is a very loved figure for Zhang and this show. For more information check out this website.
How to get to the Lui Sanjie theater?
Head to East street and either walk to the theater (30 min) or take the complimentary shuttle car.
Cycling around the countryside: Yulong river and Dragon bridge – 10RMB each bike rental.
One of the highlights of our time here was definitely cycling along the Yulong river and the countryside surrounding Yangshuo. We hired our bikes from our hostel for 10RMB each. The landscape and atmosphere is beautiful and the terrain is very easy (not a lot of hills and paved paths), there are some bridges where you must pick up your bike as there are stairs). Once you reach the Dragon bridge there is a small market where you can refuel and buy traditional trinkets, also you can descend a part of the way back by bamboo raft from a station just north of the Dragon bridge (we paid 250RMB for a raft and 20RMB extra for them to drive the bikes down to the endpoint) IMPORTANT: Make sure you keep your valuables in waterproof bags as your feet and bums will get wet and you will get splashed.
Eating in Yangshuo
The cuisine in Yangshuo does not vary much from the city of Guilin, however, there is a local speciality, Yangshuo beer fish (Pijiu Yu 啤酒鱼). Legend says that a local restaurateur was cooking the famous fresh Li River carps when his beer fell into the pan, instead of throwing the dish away he tried it, becoming one of the signature dishes of the town. Beer fish is cooked in camellia oil with fresh water from the Li River and beer. If you want to try this local delicacy you must go to MeiJie Yangshuo, we absolutely loved it!
Aside from this restaurant, we found a highlight for vegetarians and vegans, it’s called Mood Food Energy Cafe. There, you can try the local delicacies but completely guilt and worry-free! We had the famous Guilin noodles and dumplings and they were to die for! Plus the local beer was delicious.
For more info on food in the region which is applicable to Yangshuo, please check out our guide to Guilin.
Where to stay
The price of your accommodation will heavily rely on where and where you are planning to stay, we decided to find accommodation quite far from the centre (30min walk from West street) but as a result we got a cheap but spacious and quality room. These are our recommendations:
Mid-range: ££-£££
Yangshuo Mountain Retreat: Although not so close to town, this hotel is just Instagram material of dreams. Designed with a rustic, traditional interior still keeps contemporary features. The staff is extremely attentive too. Staying here you can really experience the peace and serenity so characteristic of the region.
Zen Tea House: The interiors in this centric hotel are simple but gorgeous and, not surprisingly, zen. The location could not be better, just next to West street.
Cheap: £-££
Mountain Stream Inn Yangshuo: This was one of our favourite places we stayed in during our trips. It is also decorated quite “zen” with concrete and wood blending together. It has all the facilities of a youth hostel and even bike rental and it is cheap! The only downside is its location, a bit far from town by walk.
Yangshuo Sudder Street Guesthouse: Very close location to Mountain Stream (around 30 min from West street) but lively and also very tastefully decorated, the food is delicious and the views from the pool unmissable.
Wada Hostel: If you want a young and lively atmosphere, events and great location this is the right hostel for you. Located in West street it has a stunning rooftop from where to watch the sunset.
Overview
We went to Yangshuo without really knowing what to expect. It was once a sleepy village where a few scattered tourist off the beaten path used to go to escape the mass tourist of Guilin and experience a more authentic countryside experience. However, Yangshuo is no longer this sleepy village, it is now a tourist hub targeting mainly adventure tourism but also catering for visitors to the karst landscape. Where once there were traditional cormorant fishermen, today there are men with cormorants posing for photos (yes, this traditional technique has long been extinct).
Saying this, we absolutely loved our time here. In our experience we could find enough tranquility among al the nightlife and tourist areas as we were staying off the town centre (West street) and we mainly explored the countryside by ourselves. The natural beauty of the area is the best attribute and so it made it worth having to share it with other tourists (after all, aren’t we tourists too?)
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